Distance covered - 2893km
After 2 nights in Turpan, I decided to head east and continue my trip towards Xi'an. While walking to the nearest bus station to catch a bus to the train station, I bumped into an elderly gentleman who was having his morning walks.
Him: Wow, young man. That is a big bag you are carrying. How heavy is it?
Me: It's around 8 kgs.
Him: 8 kgs? Wow, such a heavy load. How many days you will be in China?
Me: 3 weeks.
Him: Wow, 3 weeks. You must be enjoying China a lot!
Me: Yah.
Him: Where are you from?
Me: Malaysia.
Him: Oh... MH370...
It seems like we are only famous for the missing plane after all.
Anyway, I hopped onto the next express train, and another 3 hours later, I disembarked in Dun Huang's train station in one piece, except that they confiscated my new perfume!
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| The official symbol of DunHuang |
From the train station, I entered into a barren wasteland where I was swarmed bout bus and taxi drivers trying to herd us like sheep onto their minivans or taxis. I took a step backwards and analyse the situation. It seemed like there are no other options out here, except to follow the locals, pay 30 yuan and cramp myself in a minivan for 4 hours until we reach DunHuang.
Eventually we reached DunHuang, where I was dumped somewhere near the bus station. Lost, I wandered around the area; after asking around for directions (and getting myself tickets for the Mogao Grottoes), I managed to get another bus towards MingShaShan (Whispering Sand Dunes) where my guesthouse is located near to. As winter was approaching then, the peak season has burnt out, and hence the guest houses are deserted. I was the only visitor in my guest house and it was a bit scary to be honest. Anyway, I had dinner in a (touristy) cafe nearby where I tried the local delicacy - Yellow noodles with donkey meat. It was a bit overrated and pricy, and I didn't find it special, honestly. So after a few hours of local cable TV, I dozed off as I had to wake up early the next day.
I had booked local tour to visit the surrounding tourist attractions around DunHuang. By 10am, the bus picked me up near Dun Huang bus station, and our first stop was a nearby film city where many movies / tv series had filmed there. Well, there wasn't much to see here, hence we only walked around for 30minutes before heading to YangGuan (Yang Pass).
Yang Pass was a mountain pass built during the Han dynasty the Western Gate in and out of Middle Kingdom. It has fallen into ruins by 900 AD, and the only thing left there is just a lonely tower where troops used to be stationed there to send signal flares whenever an attack as imminent. The pass is also described as the last civilised frontier of Middle Kingdom, and to go out of it signifies you going into the unknown areas of the world.
A famous poem goes in this way.
渭城朝雨浥輕塵，客舍青青柳色新； 勸君更盡一杯酒，西出陽關無故人。
And it translates as.
The morning rain of Weicheng dampens the light dust,
The guest house is green with the colour of fresh willows.
Let's finish another cup of wine, my dear sir,
Out west past the Yangguan, old friends there'll be none.
Another famous poem bout this pass.
黃河遠上白雲間，一片孤城萬仞山。羌笛何須怨楊柳，春風不度玉門關
Which in English would be this.
Boundless and bare, the yellow sands embrace the white clouds;
A lone fort stands guard amidst tall mountains, far from the crowds.
A sentry plays on his qiang flute a homesick tune -- Alas!
The genial winds of Spring could never cross the Jade Gate Pass.
Well, our last itinerary of the day was a trip to Yardang Devil City (Yardang Geological Park) which is famed for its wind-eroded stone formations. By the time we reached there it was almost 6pm, and we had to rush and race against time to catch the 6.40pm sunset which is famed to be awesome! And it really was! Sitting on the dusty road, looking at the weary fireball sinking into the horizon, with monstrous land formations around you (minus the obnoxious Chinese crowd) was simply marvellous.
We left the park by 7pm, and the trip took us around 2 hours back to Dun Huang. The driver caught us by surprise when he suddenly pulled over in the middle of nowhere in the desert, telling us to go down and catch a glimpse of the Milky Way! Fantastic! For the first time in my life, I saw the Milky Way with my own eyes, unaided. However, my meagre photography skills made it impossible for me to snapshot it for remembrance, but that amazing sight was something I would never forget!
Finally I reached my hostel by 10pm; exhausted, I collapsed almost immediately after taking a nice hot bath. I had no choice, as I've got another exciting day waiting for me!
Eventually we reached DunHuang, where I was dumped somewhere near the bus station. Lost, I wandered around the area; after asking around for directions (and getting myself tickets for the Mogao Grottoes), I managed to get another bus towards MingShaShan (Whispering Sand Dunes) where my guesthouse is located near to. As winter was approaching then, the peak season has burnt out, and hence the guest houses are deserted. I was the only visitor in my guest house and it was a bit scary to be honest. Anyway, I had dinner in a (touristy) cafe nearby where I tried the local delicacy - Yellow noodles with donkey meat. It was a bit overrated and pricy, and I didn't find it special, honestly. So after a few hours of local cable TV, I dozed off as I had to wake up early the next day.
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| Yellow Noodles with Donkey Meat. 35rmb per plate |
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| Yang Pass |
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| Nothing but sand. |
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| Old site of Yang Pass |
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| Ancient caravans |
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| Lonely signal tower |
A famous poem goes in this way.
And it translates as.
The morning rain of Weicheng dampens the light dust,
The guest house is green with the colour of fresh willows.
Let's finish another cup of wine, my dear sir,
Out west past the Yangguan, old friends there'll be none.
 |
| Jade Gate Pass |
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Walking towards Jade Gate Pass
Our next stop was Yumen Guan, or translated as the Jade Gate Pass. Just like Yang Pass, the Jade Gate Pass was another main outpost of the Western border of the Han kingdom. And likewise, the only thing left was a few walls and an old gate of the Pass.
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| Remnants of the Yumen Guan walls |
黃河遠上白雲間，一片孤城萬仞山。羌笛何須怨楊柳，春風不度玉門關
Which in English would be this.
Boundless and bare, the yellow sands embrace the white clouds;
A lone fort stands guard amidst tall mountains, far from the crowds.
A sentry plays on his qiang flute a homesick tune -- Alas!
The genial winds of Spring could never cross the Jade Gate Pass.
Well, our last itinerary of the day was a trip to Yardang Devil City (Yardang Geological Park) which is famed for its wind-eroded stone formations. By the time we reached there it was almost 6pm, and we had to rush and race against time to catch the 6.40pm sunset which is famed to be awesome! And it really was! Sitting on the dusty road, looking at the weary fireball sinking into the horizon, with monstrous land formations around you (minus the obnoxious Chinese crowd) was simply marvellous.
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| Lion head |
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| The Sphinx |
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| The Peacock |
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| Sunset in the desert |
We left the park by 7pm, and the trip took us around 2 hours back to Dun Huang. The driver caught us by surprise when he suddenly pulled over in the middle of nowhere in the desert, telling us to go down and catch a glimpse of the Milky Way! Fantastic! For the first time in my life, I saw the Milky Way with my own eyes, unaided. However, my meagre photography skills made it impossible for me to snapshot it for remembrance, but that amazing sight was something I would never forget!
Finally I reached my hostel by 10pm; exhausted, I collapsed almost immediately after taking a nice hot bath. I had no choice, as I've got another exciting day waiting for me!
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