Last Words

The silk road has been amazing! And I could not believe that I had ventured 5000 kilometres in 3 weeks! 

I would definitely miss the awesome Central Asia scene in the border towns of Xinjiang, and how they slowly turn more and more oriental as I move eastwards, heading for Xi'an. Imagine how traders used to travel between the Middle Kingdom and Europe, and how these caravans are packed with exotic commodities, braving through the barren desserts and serpentine mountain paths. 

I couldn't make it to Northern Xinjiang for its awesome landscape views, and that might serve as a motivation to visit here again, someday, soon.

The 8th Wonder of the World - Terracotta Army

I woke up pretty early today, as it would be a long day ahead for me. I had two options in mind - terracotta army, or Mount Huashan; obviously I chose terracotta warriors because I didn't want to climb up Mount Huashan alone this time. I know I would definitely be back again to this amazing city.

Making my way to Terracotta Army was a bit complicated. Sources from the internet clearly warned that there are plenty of fake buses around that would take you elsewhere instead, or charge your exorbitantly for the bus ride, hence one should exercise caution and pick the right official bus. Nonetheless, when you reach the meeting point, chaotic with touts beseeching you and tempting you with all sorts of offer, one may get dissuaded to visit the Terracotta Army seeing the long waiting lines for the right bus, or follow the touts instead of queueing up.

Pavillion

Chinese Garden in Hua Ching Chi

Well, I chose to wait and queue up anyway, hence, after 30 minutes of waiting in line, I finally got up onto the bus, and headed towards the first destination - HuaQing Palace. Historically, this site used to be a hot spring pool where the infamous Lady Yang, Royal Consort of emperor Xuan Zong of the Tang Dynasty used to skinny dip in. Lady Yang, known as one of China's 4 most prettiest woman in history, was the cause of the downfall of the grand Tang dynasty. As usual, the emperor was so obsessed with her beauty that he spent more time frolicking with her, than managing his own country.

Lady Concubine Yang

Lovebirds

Currently, this place has been developed into a touristy attraction, with new pavilions and towers, and wi-fi too! Admission is expensive but it's still worth a visit since it's in the middle between Xi'an and the Terracotta Army. 

After lingering for almost an hour here, I made my way towards the Terracotta Army. The bus ride was uneventful but what infuriated me was the touts awaiting me at the bus stop!

The moment I disembarked I was swarmed by annoying touts, whom cooked up the dumbest excuse I have ever heard throughout my entire life!

"This is not the entrance to the Terracotta Army. The real entrance is 5km away, and you need to take a cab there."

One of the biggest lie I have ever heard in my life. The entrance is just around 50 steps ahead and these donkeys tried to belittle tourists with such low-class lies? At least they should have come up with something better! At least trying to sell me some overpriced souvenirs would show more creativity. 

I had to yell at some of them because they were too annoying; I was standing in front of the entrance looking at the site map, when they came one by one, like a broken radio, repeating the same thing over and over again. Eventually I yelled at them, and shooed them away to leave me in peace. After 5 minutes of silence, they flocked towards me again, but backed away when I gave them my death stare. 

Anyway, I agreed with the general saying about the Terracotta Army. If you visit it, you will regret for 15 minutes, but if you do not visit it, you will regret it for life!

There are 3 burial mounds, which comes in different size. If my memory serves me well, site no. 3 happens to be the most grandest, hence, you should always start your tour from the smallest mound to the grandest one. Otherwise, you will get disappointed. 

Kneeling infantry

Cavalry

Sites no. 1 and 2 has only a few terracotta armies exhibited but most are chariots and cavalry. Site no. 3 however, has flanks of infantry (at least a hundred of them?), hence the sight is much more grand compare to the former 2. Yet, aside from these terracotta statues, there's nothing else to see. Hence, the 15 minutes of disappointment, especially when you have paid the exorbitant entrance fees.

Site 2

Site 3

Nonetheless, looking back at it, it was quite worth it, since you don't really get to see it anywhere else. Each one of the statues are unique, as in the facial expressions, gestures and armor details are different. Imagine the hard work the ancient people has put in trying to accomplish such a feat! The 8th wonder of the wonder indeed! It is sad to know that when freshly unearthed, these statues were vibrant with colour, which slowly gets faded with oxidation as they get exposed to air. 

The moat of the old city wall

Drum Tower

It was almost dusk when I was done with the terracotta army, and hence I boarded the bus back to my hotel for a good rest. The following day would be my final day in Xi'an, and I was aiming to walk around this small city before my journey back to Malaysia. I was already homesick, so aside from the Muslim Quarters, I didn't visit much, and spent most of the time resting in the hotel. 

Hustle and bustle of Muslim Quarters

Arriving in Xi'An

Distance covered - 5106km

Finally I arrived in Xi'an, China's cradle of civilisation. After 2 weeks exploring the silk road, now I am back into the modern world (actually most of China's large towns and cities are modernised). Disembarking the final train ride for this journey, I stepped into a new world of chaos, and unfriendliness that I have never experienced throughout the previous 17 days. 

Touts linger at every corner outside the train station and pedlars bar your movement, stuffing things into your arms and asking for money. Commuters walk the street, racing against time and each other, and the air smells of vehicle fumes. "Welcome to Xi'an, I whispered to myself".

Amidst the chaotic bus stations opposite the train station, I finally found the bus that heads to my hotel, 2km away from the train station. Another 20 minutes on the bus, I leapt down and frantically searched for the hotel that I've booked through the internet last night; and after 30 minutes of frantic search, I found it. It's always nice to lie down on a clean (I hope so) cosy bed after a journey.

Flipping through my pre-planned itinerary for Xi'An, I made a some tweaks to my plans since I've used up more days that I should, leaving only 3 days and 3 nights here in this ancient city. Exhausted and a bit homesick (Damn I miss food in Malaysia), it would be prudent to go easy on myself and take things slow, as I am perfectly sure I would come back here again since Xi'an is the main transport hub for Northwest China. 

The first day in Xi'an was spent in the main attractions in the city. I started off with Shaanxi Historic Museum, one of the best museums in the country. "Give me 24 hours of your time, and I'll return you with 1000 years of history", that's the motto of this museum, which I couldn't agree more. That is an understatement to be honest, the best quote I found was "Shenzhen in 25 years, Shanghai in 100 years, Beijing in 1000 years, and Xi'an in 5000 years". No city has endured that much history as Xi'an had in Asia. 

Xi'an has been the capital city for 13 dynasties, and had been ruled by at least 70 emperors, until they shifted the capital to Nanjing or Beijing. The greatest dynasties in Chinese History, the Han an Tang, both had their capital city here. Further more, it's the eastern end of the Silk Road, and in this city once was a trade nexus where goods of all over the world are traded in and out of Asia from Europe and Middle East. 

Shanxi Historic Museum

Museums in China are usually free, though you have to queue up for the tickets. The exhibition in this museum is never disappointing, showcasing artefacts from the ancient Zhou dynasty till the golden age of Tang dynasty. I could just spend one long day here but I didn't have much time, hence I sped up and left the museum after 90 minutes here. 

Hot babes of Tang dynasty (the chubbier, the hotter)

My next top was the Little Goose Pagoda, around 2km away, and I arrived after 30 minutes later. Due to my acrophobia and limited time (before it closes) I did not think climbing up the pagoda would be a good idea. Hence a stroll in the gardens around the pagoda, and a visit to the Xi'an City Museum next door would suffice this time. 

Little Goose Pagoda

The final stop for today would be the Big Goose Pagoda, yet, by the moment I reached there by bus, it was already 6pm and the pagoda is closed for visit. However, a short stroll around the new commercialised plaza outside the park kept me busy for 30 minutes. I have gone kind of nauseated with the food here, and instead I craved for the barbecue stalls I saw just a few yards from my hotel. Hence, I took a bus back to my hotel, stopped at the barbecue stall, and feasted on the grilled stuffs - pork cutlets, chicken wings, cuttlefish, etc. before I headed back to my hotel for a nice sleep.

Large Goose Pagoda

TianShui and the Maijishan Grottoes

Distance covered - 4753km

As I venture eastwards, there seemed to be more and more Han influence and lesser Uighur / Tibetan influence in the local culture. TianShui, for instance, is another typical Chinese city, and the only reason tourists stop over here is for the Maijishan Grottoes  together with Mogao Grottoes and other 2 grottoes, known as China's 4 main Buddhist Grottoes.

As I was still recovering from the cold I caught in XiaHe, I've decided that the remaining days should be just light and easy, with plenty of time to rest in the hotel. Hence, I decided to focus mainly on Maijishan here and forsake the rest of the minor attractions here in TianShui.

The early bus took an hour to reach Maijishan, and since the October tourist peak season has waned off, there weren't many tourists on the bus. Or is it because it's just a small city after all?

After arriving in the main entrance, there's another 20 minutes of hiking up the slope before you reach the grottoes. As I trekked upwards, I started to shiver, seeing the grottoes at the side of the cliffs of this mountain. Damn, it's going to be a difficult climb this time!

Maijishan Grottoes - it is kinda high up there.

Gulps.

It's really high up there

The grottoes are located high up at the side of the cliffs, and the only way to go up there, are a labyrinth of steel stairs. Yet, the temptation of the grottoes were too great for me to resist, hence I coerced myself to overcome my acrophobia, just to have a glimpse of the caves.

Delicate carvings

Amazing.

Touch me not!

Anyway, my hands were trembling too much for photography, so not much photos were taken. However, the carvings were amazing; most of the statues were already eroded with time, but the remaining ones, which are being preserved are still breathtaking. I could feel my legs shaking more and my guts shrinking as I ascend to the highest level, so a brief glimpse of all the grottoes and I was on my way down. Yup, the entire grottoes in just 30 minutes!

Maijishan and I.

Looking back, it was a bit too rush, but then somehow fear eventually overcome me and I just had to get my feet back on solid ground. Distracting myself with the wonderful autumn scenery of the nearby mountains didn't seem to work for long.

Goodbye Maijishan

Pine seeds

I took the bus back to my hotel, had plenty of fluids, fruits and rest, as I prepared myself for my last stop, Xi'an, China's cradle of civilisation. 

Little Tibet

Distance covered - 4214km

I woke up early and made my way towards XiaHe by bus; since I was in a hurry I took a taxi towards the new bus station which is 20km away from the city centre. Tickets were still aplenty as I took the 8.20am bus to XiaHe. 

Stalking lamas 

Visitor with prayer wheel

The trip was uneventful, as the bus sped by villages and hamlets surrounded by plantations (peanuts maybe?) and farms. The highway was smooth and apart from a few stops for refuelling and toilet breaks, I reach XiaHe by noon. 

XiaHe struck me as a town very different from the rest of China. Why so? Known as Little Tibet since it is one of most populated Tibetan settlement outside Tibet, this town is full of buildings of Tibetan architecture, and its street full of Tibetan folks. I was lost after disembarking the bus, so I walked around the main street, hijacking free wi-fi, in order to get myself orientated and search for a nearby hostel.

I got a small room in a nearby Tara Guesthouse, rested for a while and started wandering into the LaBrang Monastery, which is just opposite to it. The tourist office (shabby and dysfunctional) does organise tours twice a day, and a bunch of us (me, myself and a group of foreigners) hopped onto the 3.15pm tour, which started at 3.45pm due to technical error.

Labrang Monastery is one of the biggest monastery for the yellow sect of Tibetan Buddhist, hence it's so hustle and bustle with swarms of pilgrims visiting it daily. Our tour was led by one of the young novices (who's into making extra pocket money from our fees, and to practice their English). Fortunately, for the foreigners, I managed to step up as an assistant translator whenever my guide got stuck while explaining. 

Tibetan kinswomen

The main hall in this monastery is the Manjusri hall, which is reputed to be grand with yak-butter sculptures and enormous Buddha statues, as the hall reverberates with mantra chanting by the lamas. However, there was a blackout on that day, hence everyone decided to take a break for the day. The hall was dark with a few oil lamps, hence we had to sightsee in the dark, yet with our flashlight we could still catch some glimpse of this main hall.

The plaza outside the monastery

I think we're not alone here

The flagpole for the ceremony

Yak butter Buddhist Sculptures

Buildings in the monastery

Monastery building

The library was closed on that day due to an event; the bright side, this event was so grand that there was a major procession with flocks of Tibetan folks gathering at the plaza, chanting and praying. I felt very fortunate to be able to witness such an event!

After almost an hour, it was time to wander around the monastery, climbing up the Gongtan Chorten (Golden Stupa) next to the river bank for a view of the monastery. Rows of prayer wheels surround the monastery, and there will be flocks of zealous pilgrims and followers turning them as they walk around the monastery.

The procession begins

March of the lamas

Carrying out the big flag

Grim looking lamas

Yellow sect lamas

Grandmaster appears

Nice drums

Dance of the drum bearers

"Dude, you look awesome." "Yeah, I know."

Completing the ceremony

The end

Prayer wheels 

I took a short nap and was awakened by the sudden drop in the temperature. It was freezing cold and the heater was not functioning because it's not technically winter yet! Shivering like mad in the dark, I walked opposite to a local Tibetan restaurant for a light dinner - yak meat momos and yak butter tea (definitely not my cup of tea!), then sprinted back to the hostel to rest.

Tibetan lady with prayer wheel

I figured that I had caught a cold since I was mildly feverish and shivering. With no warm clothing, I wore 2 layers of tee-shirts and a jacket, in cargo pants, and wrapped myself within the duvet and collapsed due to the exhaustion.

Yak meat dumplings

Yak butter tea

I decided to change my plan; instead of staying longer in the morning to visit the nearby Sangke grasslands (autumn with the grass wilting, there's nothing much to see in the cold), I decided to catch an earlier bus back to LanZhou and make way to TianShui, my next station.